Naoji

Though the surface of the bowl is blanketed in pale pork back fat, a spoonful of the broth at Naoji reveals unexpected lightness. Sweet rendered fat melts into a savory soy base scented with niboshi dried sardine stock, while a scattering of finely chopped raw onion cuts through the richness with fresh crunch, keeping each sip balanced from start to finish. Thick, chewy flat noodles stand up well to the assertive soup, joined by tender bamboo shoot tips and chashu pork in the distinctive tradition of Tsubame-Sanjo ramen.

Two distinct pillars and hearty side dishes

Standing alongside the chuka soba is Naojiro, an equally striking flagship known for its towering mound of vegetables. Back fat blankets a generous heap of bean sprouts and cabbage, served over firm, toothsome thick noodles and a concentrated tonkotsu broth meant for hearty appetites, with staff checking whether you would like minced garlic added. Those looking for an accompanying rice dish often reach for the negi chashu bowl, which tops steamed rice with chopped pork, green onions, and an aromatic sesame oil sauce.

Diners purchase their ticket at the machine outside before stepping inside to counter-centric seating that feels easy to slip into on your own. Whether you opt for the clean niboshi warmth and brisk onion of the chuka soba or the vegetable-laden indulgence of Naojiro, the menu gives you plenty of room to decide based on how hungry you feel.